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I was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of fiery, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight barbecue sticks (if made of wood, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves two people

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
225g paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
Two garlic pieces, peeled and grated
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml mild oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for 9 minutes, then pour off the liquid and leave to steam dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a sizable container with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a container. Preheat the broiler to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, topped with a little more sea salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.